22nd – 29th October 2007, Poland – Krakow

More photos at http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/findthebinghams/2822nd29thOctPolandKrakow

We thought the Baltic roads ‘interesting’ – ha! we now know that Poland has the edge on diabolical infrastructure…….. Worst are the deadly lorry ruts, which are everywhere, from the main roads to city centres. Throw in darkness, potholes, rain, and unlit roadworks for some pretty hairy driving……..

In fact, we got to Warsaw and although Rick drove heroically through the traffic trauma, we gave up and left. I’m sure we’ve missed out on seeing some interesting places, but at least we are calm and intact!

Some of our overnight places in Poland have been fine, but we claim the prize for having discovered the truly Krak Motel – (substitute your own letter). It takes vans when the next door camping is closed – but has a total lack of any facilities! All that’s there is a row of seedy lock-ups, with grubby-looking bedrooms above – insalubrious to say the least.

Having things to look forward to during this trip has been important – especially meeting up with family and friends. It was soooo good have Sam and Bryan, Rick and Sue and Rae join us in Krakow, and we really, really enjoyed their company – talking, drinking, laughing and eating, and sharing a bathroom with two doors (they are very good friends!)!

We had a particularly good meal one night, with the full range of Polish cuisine, and were treated to traditional dancing and singing on another….although we are curious about the storyline…..

Krakow is one of UNESCO’s twelve most significant historic sites in the world and we could see why. The only Polish city not destroyed by the Nazis, its medieval city centre is delightful. The vast market square, with its impressive Cloth Hall, was full of interesting sights (architecture, flower sellers, horse-drawn carriages, mime artists, accordionists…. and tourists)

As we followed our very own tourleader, Rae (well, he had the book), we found a fine mix of architecture, from Baroque to Gothic to Romanesque (our apartment covered the Art Deco element). Rae led us to the Barbican and the City Wall, to Wawel Castle via the oldest street and past some of the 300 churches.

Our pursuit of religious excess (see last blog!) continues, this time in the form of the Mariacki Church. Every possible surface was richly decorated – stone, plaster, wood – and the monumental altarpiece was quite astonishing. All truly awesome, prompting discussions of power, control, atheism, and god-bothering…..

Sue, Sam, Rick and I also took a tour round the main sights in a little electric trolley thingy, (not for the fainthearted in Krakow traffic). We saw more of the Jewish district of Kazimereiz, looking at synagogues and the ‘ghetto control’ wall, while contemplating the fate of the thousands of people who lived there during WWII. We visited Oskar Schindler’s factory too, although I passed on going to Auschwitz-Birkenau. I gather it was as chilling and sobering as you could imagine.

The others visited Wawel Hill, on the river bank, with its Royal Palace, cathedral, tombs etc. Rick says it’s a curious mixture of architectural styles, which seem to work together, along with lots of icons and gold. Oh, and they all got locked in the cathedral, because the exit key was mislaid….

The 800 year-old Salt Mines at Weiliczka were certainly rather special. So was the double-decker lift which took us down the 300 metres to some fabulous caverns, with amazing salt sculptures. The carved and sculpted Chapel was remarkable – rather like our guide, Dorotta, whose management of adolescent Israelis (and middle-aged Sheffielders) was enviable!

After 4 days play, Bryan, Rae and Rick C returned to Sheffield for a rest, while Sue and Sam headed South with us to Zakopane, at the foot of the Tatra mountains.

That’ll be the next bit of blog, when I find some more time! I honestly thought I’d have loads of it - to read, paint, sew etc, but the sewing machine has been out only once and this year off is just flying by…….