Thursday, November 22, 2007

Bulgaria

17th – 22nd November - Northern and Eastern Bulgaria
a few more pics at http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/findthebinghams/32BulgariaBlogpix

Nobody was interested in us leaving Romania and entering Bulgaria, but they did want the €14 to cross the only bridge over the Danube….

We drove through lovely countryside to get to Zahari Stoyanovo, where our friend Paul now lives. (He helped us build our house when he was a student and lived in a Commer van in our front garden). It was so great to see him and he looks really happy and contented, now that he’s ‘retired’ and left England for good, fulfilling his dream to own a piece of land, and become self-sufficient.

Later next year, he’ll start to build a straw-bale house on the footings of this old building. Would you be surprised to know Rick plans to go back to give him a hand?

He still has his dog, Ben, and now a puppy has successfully adopted him – Briony.

Apparently, many villages in Bulgaria are stuck in a timewarp, and Paul’s is noted for being 17th Century……. our walk round was quite an eye-opener. Rather like a farmyard with 100 houses in it. Sadly, many are now empty, as young people leave to get work in the cities. Each household produces enough for themselves, from growing food to distilling liquor.

At the moment he’s living in and renovating his sister’s house next door. There’s a lot to be done! Most of the work is basically re-building. Rick was intrigued by the wiring –as done by the electricity board!!

I’m dead impressed with his progress with learning Bulgarian after only 3 months – he’s determined to master it. We now known as POCE and RИK.

The local people seem quite intrigued by him, and they’ve made him very welcome (e.g. invitations to pig slaughtering). We were inevitably a topic of conversation in the ‘bar’. It’s like someone’s front room, with a few tables and a couple of fridges of beer. During winter, there seems to be a lot of drinking done, as the hard work outside comes to an end (at least for the men!). Puzzling, as this is predominantly a Muslim community….


Paul’s area is just beautiful (even in the snow) and the climate sounds just right (about 10 months sun and 2 of winter) – we’ll be going back to visit again!

We made our way to the Black Sea Coastal area – aka the Bulgarian Riviera. Whilst the sand and sea where lovely, the holiday villages and new apartments for foreigners seem incongruent with the poverty of some local towns.

Nessebar was used by the Byzantines as a base from which to attack Bulgaria. It’s a lovely fishing port now, with lots of well preserved 13th Century churches

Greece next – should we go via Turkey or not?

Friday, November 16, 2007

Romania

12th – 16th November, 2007 – Romania

More Pix at http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/findthebinghams/32RomaniaBlogpixReduced

Romania joined the EU this year and hopes for dramatic changes over the next 2 years - much of what we saw suggests it’s needed. Our impression is of a very poor country with very small pockets of wealth and development. Even so, people were very welcoming and we got lots of smiles and waves.

Much of the countryside is really beautiful, but fairly unproductive. Given Romania was ‘the breadbasket of Europe’ (pre-Ceausescu, of course), it has a long way to go before it could reclaim its title. The land is there, the finance isn’t.

Some of the old Saxon villages looked quite medieval and very poor. Basic mud-brick houses (with beaten earth floors) and barns are within a courtyard full of chickens, goats etc. Dogs and mud were everywhere. Some have no running water. However, other villages (eg Carta), although still obviously poor, had swept pavements, no rubbish and some cheerily painted houses. (Unexpectedly, we found a Cistercian Abbey in the village too.)

We found some intriguing architecture…. spot the stag?

The Transylvanian Alps are certainly special. We walked round the medieval fortress city of Sibiu, current European City of Culture. Its ancient architecture has been carefully restored and the enormous Square looks magnificent. It’s very Germanic in origin and felt quite like Rothenberg, only less chocolate-boxy. The Bell Tower offered superb views across to the snow-capped mountains - we kept a close eye on the time as we climbed past the 2.5 tonne bell!

Sighisoara’s medieval Citidal was at the top of about 200 wooden steps. Its 12th Century church had some fascinating frescos as well as the only crypt in Transylvania (ha! you might have guessed this city was the birthplace of Dracula (aka Vlad the Impaler). Some graves were suspiciously accessible…

Romanian roads are over-flowing with lorries, Dacia cars, horses, carts and pot-holes. In fact, there are more holes than road on many main routes. You couldn’t transport eggs here. Road improvements are happening, but we’re not convinced about the standard of repairs.

We walked around Simeria, a largish town which is trying hard to develop, but has a way to go – a bit like a farmyard with derelict factories in it. Crumbling concrete block of flats had a very depressing feel. We found a derelict steelworks which now seems to be used for cleaning out railways tankers –the waste flushes into the water system…… Standing on top of the railway bridge, it all looked really grim. Still the orange school certainly looked bright and cheerful and there was a new supermarket.

Wild camping is a definite no-go here, and many campsites are closed. Lorry parks are good and hotels usually let you park in their secure area for a small fee, or if you eat there. We found 2 excellent places, in Simeria (great meals) and Carta (did our washing for us).

Much to our amazement (and theirs) we met 4 blokes form Chesterfield, two of them driving a lorry donated by a Sheffield company. They’re carrying gift boxes to needy Rumanians. This time, to a leprosy centre on the Ukraine border and then the Black Sea area. Spare a thought for them as they sleep in their lorries in the snowy weather.

Sunday, November 11, 2007

Budapest

7th - 11th November, 2007 – Budapest and Gyula, Hungary

More of Budapest at http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/findthebinghams/317thTo11thNovHungaryAndBudapest

Budapest was just fabulous! and getting round on its wonderfully integrated transport system was impressive – some of it may be old and grafiteed, but appearances belie effectiveness. Rick particularly enjoyed the funicular, (but I resisted the urge to join him in the Railway Museum).

Hungary was at the forefront of the fall of communism in Eastern Europe and 20% Hungarians live in the capital. It’s a busy, thriving city which successfully manages to combine the ancient and modern, with grand buildings and elegant bridges. We thought it magnificent!

UNESCO again – the view of Castle Hill in Buda is on its List and includes the Palace, and the amazing Matyas Chursh (13th C original). Fishermen’s Bastion provides the ‘romantic’ ramparts from which to look across the Danube to Pest, the more modern part of the city.

Rick found the best ever European Market Hall and was in his element - he gazed in wonderment, both at its construction and its merchandise. It was truly amazing and the fruit and meat stalls were so spectacular, you wanted to eat really healthily. We re-named his favourite stall ‘Pic(kle) and Mix’.

A cruise on the Danube, with champagne, lunch and Strauss’ waltz was fun, and the river view was great. However, the day’s highlight was a theatre visit to marvel at folk-dancers and their musicians. Energetic, leaping, thigh-slapping, twisting in gorgeous traditional costumes (beautifully embroidered floral designs). It was truly a treat.

…and then there were the musicians at the other end of the scale…….

My first visit to a synagogue was to the largest in Europe. It’s recently been renovated and the Baroque and Moorish influences were evident. Particularly poignant was the memorial to the Hungarian Holocaust victims.

For 2000 years, people have enjoyed the city’s thermal springs (up to 80deg C!). Sadly, being November, many were under repair.

We drove for miles along very straight roads through very flat
farmland. There were some quite poor farms, but the towns look reasonably prosperous. Gyula, near the Romanian border has regenerated its centre and Rick was captivated by its glass and granite World Clock.

All over Hungary, we found friendly, helpful people – especially when your van gets stuck in mud….

We’re heading further south to Greece for some sun, via Romania and Bulgaria.

Wednesday, November 07, 2007

22nd – 29th October 2007, Poland – Krakow

More photos at http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/findthebinghams/2822nd29thOctPolandKrakow

We thought the Baltic roads ‘interesting’ – ha! we now know that Poland has the edge on diabolical infrastructure…….. Worst are the deadly lorry ruts, which are everywhere, from the main roads to city centres. Throw in darkness, potholes, rain, and unlit roadworks for some pretty hairy driving……..

In fact, we got to Warsaw and although Rick drove heroically through the traffic trauma, we gave up and left. I’m sure we’ve missed out on seeing some interesting places, but at least we are calm and intact!

Some of our overnight places in Poland have been fine, but we claim the prize for having discovered the truly Krak Motel – (substitute your own letter). It takes vans when the next door camping is closed – but has a total lack of any facilities! All that’s there is a row of seedy lock-ups, with grubby-looking bedrooms above – insalubrious to say the least.

Having things to look forward to during this trip has been important – especially meeting up with family and friends. It was soooo good have Sam and Bryan, Rick and Sue and Rae join us in Krakow, and we really, really enjoyed their company – talking, drinking, laughing and eating, and sharing a bathroom with two doors (they are very good friends!)!

We had a particularly good meal one night, with the full range of Polish cuisine, and were treated to traditional dancing and singing on another….although we are curious about the storyline…..

Krakow is one of UNESCO’s twelve most significant historic sites in the world and we could see why. The only Polish city not destroyed by the Nazis, its medieval city centre is delightful. The vast market square, with its impressive Cloth Hall, was full of interesting sights (architecture, flower sellers, horse-drawn carriages, mime artists, accordionists…. and tourists)

As we followed our very own tourleader, Rae (well, he had the book), we found a fine mix of architecture, from Baroque to Gothic to Romanesque (our apartment covered the Art Deco element). Rae led us to the Barbican and the City Wall, to Wawel Castle via the oldest street and past some of the 300 churches.

Our pursuit of religious excess (see last blog!) continues, this time in the form of the Mariacki Church. Every possible surface was richly decorated – stone, plaster, wood – and the monumental altarpiece was quite astonishing. All truly awesome, prompting discussions of power, control, atheism, and god-bothering…..

Sue, Sam, Rick and I also took a tour round the main sights in a little electric trolley thingy, (not for the fainthearted in Krakow traffic). We saw more of the Jewish district of Kazimereiz, looking at synagogues and the ‘ghetto control’ wall, while contemplating the fate of the thousands of people who lived there during WWII. We visited Oskar Schindler’s factory too, although I passed on going to Auschwitz-Birkenau. I gather it was as chilling and sobering as you could imagine.

The others visited Wawel Hill, on the river bank, with its Royal Palace, cathedral, tombs etc. Rick says it’s a curious mixture of architectural styles, which seem to work together, along with lots of icons and gold. Oh, and they all got locked in the cathedral, because the exit key was mislaid….

The 800 year-old Salt Mines at Weiliczka were certainly rather special. So was the double-decker lift which took us down the 300 metres to some fabulous caverns, with amazing salt sculptures. The carved and sculpted Chapel was remarkable – rather like our guide, Dorotta, whose management of adolescent Israelis (and middle-aged Sheffielders) was enviable!

After 4 days play, Bryan, Rae and Rick C returned to Sheffield for a rest, while Sue and Sam headed South with us to Zakopane, at the foot of the Tatra mountains.

That’ll be the next bit of blog, when I find some more time! I honestly thought I’d have loads of it - to read, paint, sew etc, but the sewing machine has been out only once and this year off is just flying by…….

Tuesday, November 06, 2007

Mala Fatra

3rd – 6th Nov, 2007 – Mala Fatra Mountains and Slovakia

More pics at http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/findthebinghams/TatrasToFatrasSlovakiaMartin

In Eastern Europe, wifi connections aren’t that easy to find, so we’re a bit behind with the Blog – sorry. Mind you, we could try the Slovakian Communist neighbourhood PA system that still seems to work...

We only spent 4 days in Slovakia, and we’ll certainly go back again. (The roads are better, for a start!). The Turiec region is surrounded by the most beautiful mountains of the Mala and Vel’ka Fatra ranges. We got a dramatic view of The Turiec Basin and across to the mountains on the other side, from 855m up – but only once we’d tackled the steep, bendy track leading round and up a mountain. My legs, bum and heart were well-challenged!

Of course, once you’ve got to the top, you really expect to find a Howitzer, (actually a monument to the partisans)……

Martinski Hole (Martins’ Mountain Fields) is the local skiing area and to reach it, we walked from 700m up to 1250m, through sun, ice, hail and snow. It was a bit chilly up there (-2), with 7cm snow already on the pistes. It was nice to get back to our cosy van!

Most campsites are closed now, but AutoCamping Turiec was open - we were the only ones there. A nice site in a lovely position, with Viktor, a friendly and helpful owner with loads of local and national information.

Martin is the regional centre and has played a key part in Slovak history – Rick had to investigate its re-development after Communist decline. He thought the re-construction looked good, with its Millennium Square and interesting public art and water features. There are some rather elegant private and public buildings e.g. The Theatre of the Slovak National Uprising (what a great name…).




We know we missed many castles, the wooden churches, the rivers and caves….but they’ll still be there when we return.

As we left it started to snow – on and on all day….. and it followed us to Hungary, along very flat plains. Rather boring really, until we reached Budapest and got stuck in the biggest traffic jam…so far.

But Budapest was worth the wait………………