14th – 21st October 2007 – Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania
Extra pics at
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/findthebinghams/27Blogpix14thTo21stOctBalticFerryAndTallinnToPoland
Having decided to spend more time in Sweden, it’s meant a fleeting glimpse of the Baltic area – a pity because I think we’ve missed a lot.
The overnight ferry to Tallinn was entertaining. The Gentle Power Band and a dance group from the Ukraine kept us from the roulette tables and the Starlight Aluminium disco…..

We liked Estonia. Tallinn Old Town is delightful, narrow streets
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leading to large cobbled squares, with a Gothic Town Hall, fascinating churches and houses and a 13th century fortress and walls (spot the golden arches!). Restorations and development seems to be forging ahead with their thriving economy.

The Open-Air Museum is home to a wonderful collection of 18th to 20th century traditional buildings – church, school, windmills, fire station,

farms etc. - oh, and a couple of curious sheep. All buildings were so well-preserved and well-presented in a woodland area overlooking the sea.
Michael Palin’s programme showed the Latvian concrete suitcases - a reminder of those escaping from invaders. Boats were

so full, belongings were left behind. We saw the real suitcases in the Museum of

Occupation (1939-1991) in Estonia and later in Latvia. These museums brought into vivid focus the destructive, turbulent history of the Baltic States, each invasion (Russian and German) accompanied by unbelievable cruelty, suppression and abuse.
Parnu (Estonia) has been a popular beach town since the 1930s

and we could see why, with long stretches of sand. Although some buildings were well maintained, many of the typical wooden houses felt a little in need of TLC and we found some just right for Bingham renovation (for around £35,000).

We travelled along the coast road from Estonia to Latvia (apparently the Land of Primeval Forests – well, I suppose we saw some trees and bogs). We walked round a little nature reserve, learning much about bird boxes en route.
Driving is a real challenge if you stray from the new Via Baltica. Main

roads are tarmac, but most side roads are dirt-tracks, often with well-developed pot-holes. Even main roads have a dirt-track shoulder, for the horse and carts. For many drivers, lanes serve no purpose and traffic lights are ignored, while weaving in and out, at speed, is normal. Still they seemed pretty tolerant of the permanent traffic jams. Apparently 35,000 new cars were registered in Riga alone this year……and we noticed a disproportionate number of very large 4x4s in its tiny cobbled streets (and an equal number of black leather jackets….).

Rick was very excited by Riga’s air museum (I stayed in the van!) and his highlight was sitting at the controls of the biggest bellypopper he’d ever seen, an Mi6. He came back wanting to renovate one – The Director tells me that they are being chucked off the land, so if anyone wants a huge collection of ageing Mig's get over here!
We enjoyed the evening organ recital (Bach, Mendelsson) at Riga cathedral and can look forward to the International Conference of Santa Clauses in Dec.

The beautifully restored Rundale Palace in Latvia was a surprise find, given the Soviets destruction of all things regal a

nd bourgeois. The Gold Room was impressive and the gardens will be equally so. Mind you, we also saw evidence of Soviet architecture nearby…..
The Hill of Cross

es, in Lithuania, was a sight, in so many ways. The excess was fascinating and surreal. Apparently the Russians kept bulldozing the area, but at night, despite surveillance, more crosses would appear. Unsurprisingly we didn’t add to the collection…….
The weather has been really mixed, from drizzle and fog, to sleet and sun. It’s beginning to get colder (-2 degrees last night). Still, we're warm in the van. The vendor of religious nicknacks can’t have been, sleeping in his car all night to catch the early cross planters.
We’re now pretty sure we’ve arranged a campervan swap, with a couple in New Zealand (6th March – 8th May) ………yes!