Wednesday, January 24, 2007

Greece to Southern Italy

17th – 24th Jan, 2008 Greece to Italy

the extra pics at http://picasaweb.google.com/findthebinghams/GreecePartII


Greece kept us longer...... we feel very relaxed here in the warmth and have easily settled back into our ‘European Home’ and nomadic life. We also like being on the coast...and there’s a lot of it!

Nafpaktos (on the north coast of the Gulf of Corinth) was a Byzantine Metropolis and is famed for a naval battle with the Ottoman Empire (1571). The narrow passageways and alleys leading up to its castle are surrounded by little higgledy-piggledy houses, tucked into improbable spaces. Unsurprisingly for Greece, we also saw the ubiquitous half-finished buildings. (This seems to be a national sport here – how long can a building remain incomplete?)

It was really worth returning to the Peloponnese, to visit Olympia. The Panhellenic games were held here for over 1000 years, so standing on the starting stones of the original 4th Century race-track was quite special. We saw the remains of temples to Zeus and Hera, where the Olympic flame is lit. The whole site (massive!) is well-maintained, with excellent explanations and a good museum. Sadly, the summer fires have decimated the ancient olive groves on the little hills surrounding the city – it’ll take generations to re-grow.

Very reluctantly, we left Greece. Our overnight ferry from Patras to Brindisi was last refitted in 1989, and we could tell – wet carpet from the leaky shower, unnerving mechanical noises. Don’t ever go on the Elli T. Once safely across, we stopped by a gorgeous beach, with the softest cliffs (siltstone?) we’ve ever seen. Don’t think they’ll last long; erosion is very evident.

We’ve moved from one olive producing area to another – the Puglia region in southern Italy is one big olive grove, with occasional vineyards and peach orchards. It looks delightful, particularly in the sun. It’s all really well-organised, well-maintained and so orderly.

Lecce (south of Brindisi) was impressively Baroque, with OTT palazzi facades and a profligacy of carved angels. The narrow streets with tall buildings added to the feeling of being overwhelmed, so it was a relief to find the plain Roman amphitheatre. Unfortunately, many buildings are being ‘eaten’ by pollution – but the stone masons have a job for life.

It was clear why Ostuni is known as the ‘White City’. Set on 3 hills, it looks fabulous in the sun. We wended our way up through the cobbled streets and steps of the old town to find the Duome at the top. There was nobody else around – an advantage to us January sightseers.

Alberobello – what a place! We wandered through its maze of tiny streets, gazing in wonderment at the 1500 trulli. These truly (sorry!) amazing buildings (5th Centuryish) are unique to Puglia, originally built without mortar, as local feudal lords wanted houses to be quickly removable when the taxman came to inspect. We preferred the stone finish to the white-wash – and found one just ready for us to do up........

Just lately, we’ve been more ‘leisurely’ in our adventuring - it’s rather nice, relaxing in our van. Mind you, we’re off to Pompeii next.............

Tuesday, January 16, 2007

Back to Greece

9th – 16th Jan 2008 – more Greece

Some more pics at: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/findthebinghams/35GreecePart2Blog

We had a brilliant Xmas – very busy and hectic, but so lovely catching up with everyone. We really enjoyed it. Mind you, we were ready for a rest! And laid-back Greece is the place to do it. Time seems to go slowly and everything stops at 2.00pm. January is good for sight-seeing - warm and sunny most of the time and few other tourists.

We’ve stayed on only one campsite so far (to do stacks of washing from before Xmas!). Instead, we've been on quiet sea fronts overlooking harbours, beaches and sandy car parks and snowy mountains – just great!

Our advice is never drive through Athens – we did it once and it’s a nightmare, so we took the Metro to see the amazing Acropolis - UNESCO, of course. It’s such an ancient place, we felt privileged to be there – another moving moment for me (no, not due to an earthquake!).

The sacred monuments built on the rock are mainly 6th Century BC and there are quite a few (eg Temple of Athena (aka The Parthenon), the Erechtheion, The Propylaia, Theatre of Dionysos (the first theatre?). The remains survived for generations, until Athens pollution took its toll and so protection and reconstruction has been going on for years (mind you, we’re talking about Greek time here – inverse proportion to reality - so the work may never be finished).

We saw some of the marble friezes around the top of the Temple of Athena, although Elgin, of course, removed most of them. Should the Marbles be returned? Discuss in 500 words.

We watched the strange ritual of the Greek guards outside the Athens Parliament building – it involved lots of waving of arms and legs and shoes with fluffy pom-poms. Interesting....

The prize for the most stunning position for an Ancient Monument must go to the Temple of Poseidon at Soulion – it’s a 6th C BC Doric thingied building, built in Pericles’ time, overlooking acres of sea and islands – a really beautiful setting.

One activity we hadn’t planned for – we’ve been skiing! Yes, in Greece. We spied a sign for Mount Parnassos Skiing Centre and found ourselves in beautiful mountains in glorious sun, with lots of good snow. We camped 2 nights up there and for £12, had a great time skiing at 2400 metres. Unsurprisingly, because this is Greece, there was no piste map. Along with the concept of time, Greek maps are unreliable anyway, so you need a good sense of direction whether on road or mountain. Skiing felt really weird, after having been on a beach in 17 deg the day before!

Delphi was another ‘shiver-down-the-spine’ visit. An extraordinary impressive site (and sight), built on the side of a mountain. The Ancient Greeks believed it to be the centre of the world (nah...Sheffield is, surely?) It was a much larger complex than I thought, with countless temples, a theatre and stadium. Of course, we had to consult the Oracle – our question featured the words ‘retirement’ and ‘how soon?’!

We saw the rather surreal sight of a Sunday Market (carpets, handbags, live chickens...) on a dual carriageway outside Athens, with the central reservation used as a car park....only in Greece.....


Sadly, we’ll probably move on to Italy on Friday, although it’s very tempting to stay here.....still so much to see.