Blog 6 6th
– 13th July. To The Rockies
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| Sea to Sky Highway in murky mist! |
Don’t miss the spectacular
Sea to Sky Highway
we were told! But we did… we couldn’t see a thing from the coastal road, as we
climbed out of Vancouver
in the rain and fog.
However the next day, it was completely different as we approached Mount Robson, the tallest ‘Rocky’ at 12972ft, had briefly lost it’s cloudy shroud and looked magnificent as contrails streamed away from it’s sharp ridge.
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| ice glacier mohican? |
Full of enthusiasm, we hiked up to Lower Joffre
Lake, a mere 500metres…how
beautiful! Then we were told the Middle Joffre
Lake was even better, so
we trekked a further 6km, all up a notional track requiring energetic clambering
over rockfalls and rootladders. Arriving
at Middle Joffre Lake
we found yet another fabulous vista. Then….Upper
Joffre Lake was only 1.5km further, (but a climb of 1200ft!) so, completely
knackered but unable to resist another level of awesomeness, we carried on
climbing up an unmade track. Over the last boulder – wow! the afternoon sun
shone on the intense turquoise milky lake at the foot of a crusty glacier with
an ice tower mohican. It was surrounded by craggy peaks and dammed by moraine
boulders. We just sat there, in wonderment (and wondered how we were going to
get down again).
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| thrilled but exhausted |
I thought I had an idea of the Rockies – but nothing can really prepare you for actually seeing them – the size, the shapes, the colours, the contours. The first sighting of Mount Robson was so overwhelming, that I very nearly cried.
Just as you think your brain
has adjusted to the size and scale of the Rockies,
you go round a bend, and there’s yet another mind-blowing view!
The Icefields Parkway, from Jasper down to Banff, is the most
stunning drive imaginable. The only other comparable icefield is in Siberia. We took the Jasper Sky Tram (50yrs old cable car)
up 7500ft to Whistlers
Mountain, then climbed up
to the top (9000ft), for a stunning view of the world below, whilst being in the midst of 360deg of rugged
snow-covered peaks. How special is that?
The wild flowers were so beautiful and we saw a few marmots – they hibernate for 9 months of the year, and sit in the sun for the other 3. Sounds like they haven’t got past adolescence to me!
Thanks to Helen and Howard’s
book, we did some fantastic trails up into the
these colossal mountains. Wilcox Pass
gave us a challenging hike, but then spectacular views across Lake Louse
and Athabasca Glacier, especially when comfortably seated in their colour coded
lawn chairs with built in picnic table!
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| An erratic? |
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| 165ft deep |
Erosion has created some
stunning canyons and chasms while ancient glaciers have arranged random
boulders called erratics for more interesting photo opportunities. Maligne Canyon was really impressive - a deep
and narrow chasm (165ft) with torrents of water churning and bubbling below, then
disappearing over thunderous waterfalls.
Athabasca Falls
was pretty impressive too.
The many lakes, of course, are equally astounding –beautiful and picturesque set between soaring scree slopes and conifer covered crags . Medicine Lake was particularly interesting – it has no river outlet, and empties through 16km of caverns and crevices in the rock below it. We were really taken with the super reflections in Bow Lake.
Lake
Louise was packed – traffic
and tourists alike. When we did get to see it, we weren’t convinced it really
lives up to its own hype. Yes, it has lovely colours and has the glacier above
it, but the monstrous hotel village is a bit of an eyesore and we’d seen Upper Joffre
Lake, much more stunning.
It would seems that bears
are like no 22 buses. We’ve now seen 6 Black Bears (see video of
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| Black Bear Video Near Maligne Lake |
one of them),
and 2 Grizzlies, mum and baby, eating
buffalo berries which were viewed from the Lake Louise
ski chairlift. Brilliant! And our other treat was to spot this Scarface Pika, about
the size of Grace’s chinchilla (but a bit more mangled – we think an eagle had
a bit for lunch).
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| Grizzly Mum and Little One |
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| Pika at Kicking Horse Lookout |
We didn’t get to Banff, because of time, and also missed out on
Head-Bashed-In-Cliff - you can guess what used to happen to Buffalo here! We did find Pot Hole Lane, one for Sheffield
to adopt, possibly. Then there was Wrong Way Lane that we didn’t dare go down –
or up.
The National Park
campgrounds have been in some wonderful locations, each pitch quite secluded,
surrounded by trees. One, in Jasper, has to be shared with grazing elk, and has
been this way for years. Actually, it seems elk are the most dangerous animal
around, more so than bears, wolves and cougars – calving and rutting result in very
aggressive and dangerous animals for a while, the rest of the time they look
very friendly. Last night we stopped in
a National Forest campground which was free and still had a firepit grill,
table and bench and toilets. You had to
pump your own water from the well and a bear was hanging around looking for a
free lunch.
Not sure how Rick does it,
but he happened on the Rocky Mountaineer pulling in to stations at both Jasper
and Lake Louise and two ‘random’
railside picnic stops have culminated in multiple roaring diesels and Canada
Pacific trumpeting….I think it all started back at the Sacramento Railroad
Museum.
Apparently we are in the
midst of an unprecedented heat-wave, and it’s been dry for so long, there are
dozens of fires in the NW Territories. Even our Icefields Parkway to Banff was closed for 24hrs for firefighting
and poor visibility, with the smoke still much in evidence the next day.
We can’t escape technology even in the Rockies and while we were in Maligne Canyon we spotted someone experimenting with his four engined video drone. However he was too wary of losing the control signal to allow it to descend into the deep canyon where the best pictures would have been. And Rick is also coming home with a new Transformer Tablet…cheap from Walmart’s Techno Toy Department!
If the hat fits…….
We’re now back in America, heading for Olympia – then the Alaskan Cruise…..
More photos at:
https://plus.google.com/photos/112477145672617228065/albums/6036352140303208177
https://plus.google.com/photos/112477145672617228065/albums/6036351102825608177
https://plus.google.com/photos/112477145672617228065/albums/6036351607535344193
https://plus.google.com/photos/112477145672617228065/albums/6036350433641901041
https://plus.google.com/photos/112477145672617228065/albums/6036349735465707393
https://plus.google.com/photos/112477145672617228065/albums/6036349078378223313
https://plus.google.com/photos/112477145672617228065/albums/6036348856450783649
https://plus.google.com/photos/112477145672617228065/albums/6036348126526452193
https://plus.google.com/photos/112477145672617228065/albums/6036347679622174977